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AA

Niagara Falls on Foot

Let's face it, nobody visits Niagara for the casino. If the thunderous falls are the only thing you want to see, it's entirely possible to do without a guide - and you only need to allow a few hours.

I was travelling from Toronto to New York and wanted to see the falls on the way. There's a Canadian/US border crossing (called the Rainbow Bridge) right next to the falls, so I decided to brave it on foot despite the fact that my one-way border crossing would require dragging my suitcase with me.

It was raining when I arrived, so I opted to take a cab from the train station to the farther end of the falls (about $11). This meant I started walking from the Canadian "Horseshoe" Falls, with the border crossing at the end.

True to what I'd heard, the Canadian side was more spectacular...

I was surprised I could capture a crisp photo... the speed of the crystal clear water rushing over the side of the Canadian Falls was a staggering 2,271,247 litres per second!

Just a few minutes walk away, the American Falls were equally impressive for a different reason. They pass less than a quarter of the volume of water, so enormous ice floes gave the appearance that the waterfall had frozen. I contemplated ticking 'see a frozen waterfall' off my T-Shirt Bucket List, but decided I should wait until seeing a waterfall that had truly frozen in place.

Normally there are other paid activities at the falls, allowing you to go down on the water - but not in winter. However, I was really happy with what I got to see.

The American Falls on the left, and the Canadian Falls on the right

I crossed the border at the Rainbow bridge without an issue, then caught a bus to Buffalo for my flight to New York.

Overall I found it a very straightforward experience and would highly recommend it even for one-way travellers like myself who need to bring all their luggage with them. Despite the rain and the recent snow, the walk was easy, and well-paved.

My #1 tip is not to miss the Canadian Falls - the border crossing is efficient and it's well worth the effort, even if you're not planning to visit Canada as part of your trip.

24 Hours in Toronto

I knew I'd hit Canada the moment the view from my window became ice and snow.



My first visit to Canada, unfortunately, was to be a short one. I wanted to do a day trip from New York to Niagara Falls, and discovered that it would save me over $500 to do it myself and fly via Toronto. So, I had the serendipitous opportunity to add 24 hours in Canada's largest city onto my trip.

My first observation was that it was freezing cold. About -4°C to be precise. My second observation was that all the locals were wearing T-shirts and excitedly chirping to each other about how exciting it was to finally have a break from the cold weather. Apparently just a few days before it had been minus 20.

In true Toronto form, I started my day by walking around the city with a coffee from Tim Hortons (read: Canadian Starbucks) cradled in my gloved hands.

The inevitable first stop, to get my bearings, was the CN Tower – which was the world's tallest tower until 2010.

It's worth buying a coffee from the restaurant to see the last part of the 360° view.

The walk from the CN Tower to Chinatown provides some interesting views of Toronto which were made even brighter by the glorious sunshine – something I'm told the locals hadn't experienced for quite some time.

After an affordable lunch at Noodle King, a recommended Chinatown restaurant, I explored the colourful Kensington market area. This bohemian shopping neighbourhood is well worth a visit for any fan of vintage clothing or collectables.

When I popped home to unload my purchases, I was interrupted by a tapping noise on my window.

For dinner, I headed to Toronto's vibrant Church Street neighbourhood, determined to find some Canadian poutine (french fries topped with gravy and cheese) to top off my fleeting visit. I didn't have to look far. O'Grady's Tap and Grill offered an amazing gourmet poutine with bacon, and months after my visit I can still remember the delicious taste. In fact, a Canadian recently told me that the best poutine in Canada comes from a little pub on Church Street.

Though I had no idea at the time, it was O'Grady's. A great way to cap off my fleeting fist visit to Canada.

Vegas: All Work and All Play

I left Vegas three years ago with a long list of things I'd missed, and no idea if I'd ever be back to tick them off. But this year, I unexpectedly got the chance.

But there was an important catch: this was no leisure trip, but my first international work trip. Consequently, my colleague Sarah and I had a very exhausting work schedule, and the few gaps in which to see Vegas had to be stolen from time we'd otherwise be sleeping - late at night or early in the morning. But, we managed to make a fairly decent go of it. Having said that... I didn't have time to gamble even once, my whole time there!

Sarah and I in the state we appeared for most of our time in Vegas.

Without further ado, here's the list of activities I failed to complete last time:


1.  The Stratosphere rides
Imagine getting thrown off the side of a skyscraper, 350m high. Welcome to Stratosphere. Seriously. There are three theme-park rides that throw you around in all kinds of directions from the top of a tower only a few storeys lower than the Empire State. It's insane. Sarah wasn't at all keen to try the rides, assuming the role of photographer.

2.  Visit a Vegas club
This one I wasn't sure I would get to tick off, but I should have known the Les Mills Megamadness after party would be a good night!

3.  Buffet, sweet buffet
After a long day on my feet, I nearly ordered room service again. But I couldn't pass up the opportunity to try my first Vegas buffet. Given my companion was the nutrition manager, there was no hope of company, but I enjoyed it on my own regardless. Though, I barely got through three platefuls - including dessert!




4.  See 'O' by Cirque du Soleil
Thank goodness Vegas never sleeps - 'O' performs twice nightly, and the second performance is late enough that we were able to make it after finishing our responsibilities at the convention. Although, we were cutting it so fine that we had to sprint the entire way, arriving so puffed out I thought I was going to die!

I'm very glad we made the effort - 'O' topped every Cirque du Soleil list I could find... and it really was a magical experience. My favourite scene involved a giant pirate ship, with trapeze artists and acrobats completed indescribably complicated manoeuvres while it swung in the air above an enormous pool, which at other times was filled with synchronised swimmers.

5.  Helicopter over the Grand Canyon
Sarah surprised me on my first night, with a big idea that I never expected to work. She hatched an impossible sounding plan for us to helicopter to the Grand Canyon and back before the time that we needed to begin work the next morning - 10am. But it worked. The only catch was that we had to leave our hotel at 5:30am...

Arriving at the airfield shortly after sunrise

The awe-inspiring Grand Canyon - with the SkyWalk just visible in the centre.

The mindblowing view from the SkyWalk

They say the glass is thicker than it looks.

Given the minuscule amount of spare time we had, I'm still shocked at how much we managed to squeeze in.

There's only one thing still remaining on my Vegas list: the roller coaster at New York New York.

Oh well, maybe next time.

Rotorua: 4 Unmissable Activities Off the Beaten Track

Rotorua, known for its pungent rotten egg smell, is probably New Zealand's most touristy city. So, for those who like to get off the beaten track, it can be difficult to know what's worth doing.

This list isn't exhaustive: there are plenty of other cool things to do in Rotorua (hot tip: if you visit the Buried Village, make you you do the side-route to the waterfall - it's worth it). But, this is a list of my favourite four things in Rotorua that you're unlikely to hear much about elsewhere.

And the best part is, you can do all of them in 4-5 hours.

#1.  Wai-O-Tapu
Visiting a Geothermal area in Rotorua is absolutely essential, whatever kind of traveller you are. Having done several, I think the best one for people who like getting off the beaten track is definitely Wai-O-Tapu. It's about 25 minutes out of town, so it gets less visitors, and it offers the most colourful range of different kinds of volcanic sights I've ever come across. The only slightly less-cool thing is that their geyser is stimulated with a chemical to make it go off at a regular time each day.

The Wai-O-Tapu geyser

The vibrant palette at Wai-O-Tapu

Wai-O-Tapu's most famous sight: the Champagne Pools

Oh, ya know, just an acidic, highlighter green-coloured pool

#2.  Kerosene Creek
This place is the best kept secret in Rotorua. A naturally occurring spa pool, complete with a hot waterfall. Let me just say that again: a hot waterfall! It's located a 5 minute drive from Wai-O-Tapu and completely free. Do not miss it.

#3. Māori Jesus

St Faith's Church, a beautiful Tudor-style building right next to a traditional Māori marae (meeting house), has a special secret. Instead of a traditional stained-glass window, they have an ordinary window looking through to the lake, with a white Jesus figure painted on it, appearing to walk across the lake towards you. And what makes it even more special is the fact that Jesus is wearing a Māori cloak and has Māori features. I love this sign of harmony between religion and indigenous culture.

#4.  The best pies in New Zealand
We Kiwis are damned serious about pies. Not the family-sized fruit pies you see overseas, but a single-serving meat pie with flaky pastry. When I was in London there wasn't a kiwi treat I missed more than an old fathful mince and cheese pie.

So, telling you I know where to find the best pies in New Zealand is quite a big deal. But I'm going to: Better Pies 2000 has an awful name, but the most amazing pies you will ever taste. Usually I'm a total carnivore, but even the vegetarian one is incredible: with pumpkin, broccoli, carrot, mushroom all in a delicious cheesy sauce. Honestly, try anything, they're all good.

Once you've got your pie, drive back to the lake and eat it on the edge of the pier. It's bliss.

The Magical Coromandel (in Photos)

"This place should have more visitors. It deserves them. You mark my words, the tourists will come flocking here in a few years when word gets out"

- my friend Ally, upon discovering the Coromandel for the first time

Most overseas visitors come to New Zealand expecting the epic snowy mountains from the Lord of the Rings. And they'll find them too - when they visit the South Island. Sadly, this means many visitors find the North Island to be underwhelming. But, once you get out of the cities, the North Island is every bit as beautiful (albeit in a warmer kind of way). If you're visiting Auckland in the summertime, do yourself a favour: hop on a bus or hire a car and get yourself to the Coromandel.

Whangamata beach (pronounced Fung-ah-mah-tah)

The Coromandel Peninsula is just a few hours drive from Auckland, but these sleepy seaside towns are a few degrees warmer than Auckland all year round. That's probably why the whole area is overflowing with local holidaymakers around New Years. But, arrive just a few weeks earlier or later, and you'll practically have the place to yourself.

It feels wrong to bore you with too many words about such a photogenic place, so I'm going to let the pictures do most of the talking...

Epic photobomb from my uncle, who now lives in Whangamata

My favourite beach on the peninsula: Hahei (pronounced Hah-hay)

Cathedral Cove - one of New Zealand's stunning natural wonders

Cathedral Cove alone is worth visiting the Coromandel to see

Even on a cloudy day, Cathedral Cove is still a stunner

Hot Water Beach - bring a spade and make a natural spa pool

The Driving Creek Railway in Coromandel Township - built by one crazy potter over decades

The view from the top of the Driving Creek Railway

I honestly can't recommend the Coromandel enough to people visiting New Zealand and wanting to see a less-touristy side of the North Island. It's truly magical.

24 Hours in Grampians National Park

Barely three hours from Melbourne, there's a National Park I'd never heard of until I looked at a map to work out what there was to do on the drive from Adelaide. And it turns out, Grampians National Park has startling beauty that deserves to be better known.

These are the highlights of my 24 hours in the Grampians...

MacKenzie Falls

Boroka Lookout

This poor young kangaroo tripped over his long feet and tumbled right in front of us!

But he was fine - here's the same kangaroo an hour later peering in at people dining at our motel restaurant

The amazing view from Mt William - my favourite lookout in Grampians

Bunjil's Shelter - one of the most important Aboriginal rock paintings

The Great Ocean Roadtrip

British people all seem to dream of going to Australia. And there's one item sure to feature on their itinerary. A highlight of Aussie travel marketing in Europe that somehow few Kiwis have ever heard of: Victoria's Great Ocean Road. After hearing about it non-stop when I lived in the UK, I decided to pop over the ditch to discover it for myself.

Driving the Great Ocean Road, I couldn't shake the feeling that it was a tad overrated - dreamed up by some marketers at Tourism Australia as another lure for tourists from the landlocked capitals of Europe.

Growing up in New Zealand, I have seen more than my fair share of beautiful coastal drives, and this 250km stretch of the journey between Melbourne and Adelaide didn't feel much more notable than the decidedly less-hyped routes along the Far North, Coromandel, or Nelson. But it does have a very marketable name, and I can't deny that there were a few truly beautiful spots.

Split Point lighthouse

The view from Split Point

Erskine Falls, a short detour from the Great Ocean Road

The view from one of many well-placed lookout spots

And the highlight of every Great Ocean Roadtrip: the majestic Twelve Apostles
(time it for sunset if you want to recreate this gorgeous photo)

We made other (less photogenic) stops in Port Fairy and Mount Gambier. Most roadtrippers head back to Melbourne after completing the Great Ocean Road, but we chose to continue along the Coorong to Adelaide.

And, interestingly enough, we stumbled across one of the most magnificent sights of our trip by accident, several hours after concluding the Great Ocean Road: pelicans chilling out by the gum trees in Meningie at sunset.

But we had a very special reason for being in Meningie en route to Adelaide, and it had nothing to do with pelicans. Kat and Mikey, our best friends from London, who we also had epic trips to Copenhagen and Ireland with, had moved back home a few months earlier.

And a little while after they arrived back in South Australia, Mia turned up.

So, for me, the Great Ocean Road itself was a little underwhelming (except for the Twelve Apostles). And I haven't even mentioned the $900 worth of speeding fine we managed to accumulate unawares in a single 24 hour period! But, our journey across the Tasman was completely worth it when we were reunited with the Pullman clan.

We're at an interesting point in our lives where people are coming home from their OEs and settling into families, careers and mortgages. And Kat and Mikey are the first of my friends to have a baby - a fact that made me a pathetic combination of proud and excited. We instantly assumed the titles of surrogate uncles. And the time we spent hanging out together, just the five of us in Mount Barker, was as memorable as any day we ever spent in London.

Life is good.