Istanbul in Two Days (part 2)

I had a dilemma back in June. How can you possibly explore a city as vast, as cosmopolitan and as interesting as Istanbul in just a day?

I decided you couldn't. So I didn't try to. I was fortunate enough to know I was coming back for another day a few months later. So I ticked off half of my hit list in June (see the post here), and now I'm back for more!

Here's the Antipodean's guide to Istanbul, part two:


7.  The Blue Mosque
The Blue Mosque feels relatively modern in a city with history as rich as Istanbul. After all, it's only 500 years old - constructed more than 1,000 years after the Hagia Sophia. Unlike Hagia Sophia, this is still a functioning mosque. So you can only walk through outside the hours of prayer, and you have to take off your shoes.

The gold and iridescent blue on the inside is stupefying. And because it's still a functioning mosque, you can only walk around part of it - which strangely adds to the charm.

8.  Topkapı Palace
All you kids who have dreamed of seeing the prophet Abraham’s saucepan, look no further. It’s right here in Topkapı Palace, along with other relics like Moses’s staff, Joseph’s turban and Muhammed’s footprint. Though the relics are fascinating, one can’t help but consider them a little far-fetched, so the real highlight of a visit to Topkapı is undoubtedly the palace itself.

And specifically, the harem. Back in the day, being a wife or concubine of the sultan was a pretty desirable job. With intricate İznik designs covering every wall inside the harem – it’s an environment not unlike walking around inside a kaleidoscope. Compared to the world outside the palace, the women of the harem had a fairly good deal.

Make sure you set aside at least half a day for the palace. It’s enormous, and just about all of it is remarkable if you know what you’re looking at – which is a good reason to buy the guide at the gift shop before you go in.

The detailed walls of the harem.

The view of the city across the Bosphorus alone is worth the entry price.

Some of Istanbul's mosques, visible from the palace.

9.  The Spice Bazaar
The second largest covered shopping complex in Istanbul (after the Grand Bazaar, naturally) has a smell that hits you the moment you walk in, but is impossible to describe accurately because of the way it evolves as you walk around. I found myself musing over whether blind people would be able to navigate the bazaar by smell alone. One step and your nostrils are overwhelmed by mint, and the next, some exotic blend of spices that the shopkeeper assures you is his grandmother’s secret recipe – certain to make every meal delicious.

And there’s Turkish delight everywhere. After far too long (two months, to be exact), I’m reacquainted with the most wonderful creation in the history of confectionary: pomegranate and pistachio Turkish delight.

I’m sorry to leave Istanbul. If only because I failed to find any new restaurants worth recommending (despite choosing carefully based on independent reviews).

Oh well, I guess I’ll just have to come back.

Ottoman Trek: Istanbul

Where East meets West. That's what I'd heard about Istanbul. Knowing it was a heavily Muslim city, I pictured it exactly like Marrakesh, with snake charmers in the public square, Eastern architecture, and calls to prayer over loudspeaker a few times a day.

When we first arrived, part of me was a little disappointed: what I saw was more West than East. Most of the architecture was clearly European, and there were no snake charmers - not where I was, anyway! But I soon discovered that Istanbul has a fascinating layer under the surface, and if you are prepared to look a little deeper, it does live up to its reputation.

To state the obvious: you need more than a day in Istanbul. I was lucky enough, arriving here as the last stop of Busabout's incredible Ottoman Trek, to already know that I'll be back for another single day in September. So I made a slightly unusual choice, and decided to divide the city into two manageable chunks - seeking only to complete one of them this time around.

This is The Antipodean's guide for half of Istanbul in a day; I'll publish a follow-up post in September offering the other half in a second day.

1.  The Grand Bazaar

Renowned the world over as a visual feast of colour, the Grand Bazaar does not disappoint. It feels more ordered than the markets in Morocco, and it's easier to stay oriented. Gift idea: the metal-shops all sell little spice grinders. They're beautiful, inexpensive, very Turkish, and will even fit in your already overstuffed suitcase. Take your time finding the best one - there are subtle variations - then pretend not to like it and test your talent for haggling!

2.  Watermelon in the main square

Afternoon temperatures can be sweltering, so take refuge in the main square near the Blue Mosque with a large slice of fresh watermelon from one of the many carts.

3.  Hagia Sophia Mosque

This mosque is 1,000 years older than the Vatican. Let me say that again. This mosque is a thousand years older than the Vatican! And it actually spent its first thousand years as a church, before being converted into a mosque in 1453 (when it was still the largest cathedral in the world). The €12 entry fee seems steep after a week of Eastern-European prices, but don't let it scare you off. This is considered the pinnacle of Byzantine architecture for a reason!

4.  Turkish tea and snacks

I won't go as far as recommending a place, because finding your own is half the fun! But find out whether they use fresh or powdered apple in their apple tea - and keep looking if it's not fresh. Save room for at least two types of baklava and turkish delight - and may I suggest that one of those is pomegranate turkish delight wrapped in pistachios. (I finally understood why Edmund is so won over by the stuff in The Lion, The Witch, and The Wardrobe!)

5.  Turkish Baths

Defying the usual tourist-trap laws, the main Turkish baths by the Grand Bazaar are meant to be wonderful. However, in line with expectations, they're also very expensive! So we chose Gedikpaşa Hamamı, built in 1475. I entered the baths with an acute sense of culture shock, and left feeling fantastic. Keep an eye out on Flight Centre UK's blog for the full hilarious account of my Turkish Bath experience (I'll link to it here once it's been published).

The surprise towel-turban ending was my favourite part!

6.  Dinner at Palatium

"Do you serve falafel kebabs?" Ally has a craving. "Yes", replies the restaurateur. "Also, we have an underground Roman palace" he adds nonchalantly. Sold! And thus began my love affair with Palatium (just one street over from Busabout's base at the Sultan Hostel). Arriving early, we quickly nabbed the beanbags on the outdoor balcony area, because they're on glass and you can glance down at the palace while nibbling your mains! This is not the cheapest restaurant in Istanbul, but it's still very reasonable by Western standards, and they served the best food I've tasted in months. I really can't rave enough: Palatium was my unexpectedly wonderful discovery in Istanbul.

After our meal at Palatium, we ventured down to see the palace. It was far bigger than anticipated, and really something! We decided, for some unknown reason, to practice the Bulgarian dancing we'd learned a few days earlier at the gypsy dinner in Sofia.

The security guard who snapped us mid-dance thought we were deranged.

Getting caught Bulgarian dancing at midnight in an underground Roman palace beneath a wonderful restaurant in Turkey... I can't think of a better ending for the Ottoman Trek!

The Antipodean travelled on the Ottoman Trek thanks to Flight Centre UK and Busabout. You can find out more about the Ottoman Trek here.

Ottoman Trek: Preview

Almost a year ago, I embarked on the birthday trip of a lifetime overland from the south of France to the place I’d always dreamed of visiting: Dubrovnik, Croatia.

The image that had me going gaga for Dubrovnik a year ago

Tomorrow, just before my next birthday, Busabout and Flight Centre UK have given me the opportunity to continue this trip east: from Split, Croatia to Istanbul, Turkey on Busabout’s Ottoman Trek.

The itinerary is mouthwatering (have a look here).

I’m most excited about Sarajevo because I think it’s the most historically important city of the 20th century, given Archduke Franz Ferdinand’s assassination there sparked WWI, which set off the dominoes that started WWII. Not to mention the horrific war of the 90s.

On the other stops, I’m craving those unexpected experiences that can come from discovering places you knew little about before leaving. Bulgaria is somewhere I’d never given much thought before booking this trek, so I have no idea what to expect there. And I hear Mostar is a little gem too...

The famous bridge in Mostar, Bosnia

And to round the trek off in Turkey sounds too perfect to be true. I’ve been promised it’s possible to nip down to Gallipoli the day after arriving in Istanbul, which is definitely high on the agenda for this antipodean.

Plus, because I’m used to booking these trips myself, I’m looking forward to the camaraderie and reduced stress that comes from travelling with a group.

You can follow the adventure as it unfolds on twitter and facebook - click the icons below.

Some of my highlights from the trek will also be published on Flight Centre UK’s blog. I'll link to them after they're posted.