Islas Cíes: the Best Beach in Europe

I’m following a steep trail through enormous gum trees. Every few steps a red butterfly or scurrying lizard catches my eye. The air is fresh and were it not for the glimpses of turquoise water between the trees, it would be easy to believe I'm in a large forest. I’m starting to break a sweat.

Though the UK may still be grey and miserable, there’s a tiny slice of the Caribbean on the continent, and somehow I managed to find it.

You could be forgiven for thinking Praia das Rodas (the main beach on the island) was somewhere in the tropics.

As I round a corner, suddenly I’m aware of the sun beating down on my shoulders. The path continues to climb upwards until I’m higher than the tops of the gum trees I was walking through.

To my left, I can see another of the Cíes islands. Ahead of me lies my reward: the lighthouse at the highest point on the island.

The other island to my left.

My goal: the lighthouse.

About half an hour later, I arrive. And what a sight.

After soaking in the rugged magnificence of this spot for as long as I can, I start to feel like I could shout without a soul hearing me. So I do.

Back at the campground in time for sunset.

I discovered Islas Cíes quite deliberately. I wanted to spend my birthday on the most beautiful unblemished beach in Europe. I thought I’d end up somewhere in the Mediterranean. But The Guardian told me in its list of the best beaches in the world to come here, in rugged northern Spain.

Seeking to balance a spate of city breaks, I was thrilled to learn that the only accommodation on the island was in the campground. I bought a cheap tent from Amazon and dutifully paid the Ryanair excess baggage fees to cart it to the island.

You wouldn't know this photo was taken after 9pm.

Food on the island comes from one of two restaurants which are a lot like the serveries from school camp. There are no English translations so the menu felt like a food lottery. I stared wistfully at others’ paella, Spanish omelettes and sausage platters and hoped that the unknown dish I requested would be one of those.

Unfortunately whatever I ordered was Spanish for “two McChicken patties and a side of fries”. You live and you learn!

There are several gorgeous beaches on the island, and the next day I spent a pleasant afternoon walking around the rocks to find a small cove I could have entirely to myself.

Praia das Figueiras, near the little cove I found for myself.

I really had to pinch myself when we were leaving. I felt like I’d spent my birthday in paradise. And the highlight was definitely sitting on the edge of a flat rock on the highest point, with the sun warming my back and the wind teasing me to jump.

Islas Cíes will always feel like my personal secret – a special place where solitude enables the kind of personal reflection that opens a new chapter in your life. It’s so much more than a beach holiday.

Ottoman Trek: Preview

Almost a year ago, I embarked on the birthday trip of a lifetime overland from the south of France to the place I’d always dreamed of visiting: Dubrovnik, Croatia.

The image that had me going gaga for Dubrovnik a year ago

Tomorrow, just before my next birthday, Busabout and Flight Centre UK have given me the opportunity to continue this trip east: from Split, Croatia to Istanbul, Turkey on Busabout’s Ottoman Trek.

The itinerary is mouthwatering (have a look here).

I’m most excited about Sarajevo because I think it’s the most historically important city of the 20th century, given Archduke Franz Ferdinand’s assassination there sparked WWI, which set off the dominoes that started WWII. Not to mention the horrific war of the 90s.

On the other stops, I’m craving those unexpected experiences that can come from discovering places you knew little about before leaving. Bulgaria is somewhere I’d never given much thought before booking this trek, so I have no idea what to expect there. And I hear Mostar is a little gem too...

The famous bridge in Mostar, Bosnia

And to round the trek off in Turkey sounds too perfect to be true. I’ve been promised it’s possible to nip down to Gallipoli the day after arriving in Istanbul, which is definitely high on the agenda for this antipodean.

Plus, because I’m used to booking these trips myself, I’m looking forward to the camaraderie and reduced stress that comes from travelling with a group.

You can follow the adventure as it unfolds on twitter and facebook - click the icons below.

Some of my highlights from the trek will also be published on Flight Centre UK’s blog. I'll link to them after they're posted.

Quarter of a Century in Korčula

I hate getting older. But at least this year I had the beautiful island of Korčula to make everything seem better.

Lookout point with Korčula in the distance. 

Korčula is about two hours north of Dubrovnik, and I had been tipped off to how great it was by others who had visited.

The atmosphere is relaxed, the water crystal clear, and the food well priced. We stayed for hours.

Paul testing the water off the pier.

We walked around the coast for a bit until we found a secluded spot where we could swim alone. We sat on the rocks and dangled our feet in the water, until Paul's leg was grabbed by a huge tentacle. He screamed and fell in. We still don't know whether it was a squid or an octopus, but it sure was funny!

 

The trip back to Dubrovnik takes you through the main wine producing region of Croatia. Our driver took us to one of the wineries where we stayed for around an hour trying the local specialties, including one they'd served the pope only two weeks earlier!

When we arrived back in Dubrovnik, we bought some birthday cake in a bakery. Back in our room, we wrote postcards. I sat backwards when I'd finished, and sat backwards. Onto the cake. Not my finest moment.

This is what it looks like when you buy a birthday cake and then sit on it.

Once I'd cleaned the chocolate of my butt, I looked up and saw the sky lit up like it was on fire. Sunset in Croatia is so dramatic!

We headed back into the old town before it got dark. The sky kept changing hue.

The sky turned purple as we approached the famous city walls.

Dubrovnik sure put on a good show for my birthday. I don't think it had anything to do with it being the opening of the Dubrovnik Summer Festival, and the President being in town or anything.

People lined the streets. I know I've used the word festive a lot these past few weeks... but there's no other word to describe it! Beautiful choral music filled the streets as thousands tried to catch a glimpse of the ceremony.

At about 10:30, Paul and I sat by the beach to watch fireworks over the harbour. They were spectacular.

The perfect end to a great birthday and a great trip. We flew out the next morning. I forgot to send the postcards.

Flying over Venice.

Flying over the Austrian Alps.